13.1.10

right foot

it´s not broken. but that x-ray tech was questionable. evidently sometimes broken bones don´t appear in an x-ray immediately. which sounds crazy. i really don´t feel like icing down right now.

also, i´ve decided that hurting my foot is my punishment for being a lousy traveler. when my foot was in sound condition, i didn´t take advantage of it (in a good way). instead, i slept in, didn´t work out, didn´t explore, and ate take out sushi for dinner 50% of the time. now that my foot is swollen and hard to walk on...just look at me. i´m all sorts of blogging, about to finish a pretty decent book and...well that´s all. but it´s better than yesterday. so, since i´ve been in a bit of an Aesop´s fables kinda mood today, i´ll say this- and i don´t know if it´s a John Milton quotation or not- if you don´t use your gifts (aka feet, legs) they will be taken from you (or rot, or break, or develop cankles).

PS- the name of the book I´m reading is The Clothes on Their Backs by Linda Grant. This silly computer won´t let me use links.

12.1.10

lastly

if you think you are a flexible person, try flying standby.

my bad karma

I don´t think I was meant to be alone in Argentina.
Last night I´m pretty sure I broke my foot outside my hotel in Palermo Hollywood, Buenos Aires.
Thanks to my wearing high heels on cobblestone roads and uneven pavement.
I´m bruised, scabby and my foot is swollen, almost unmovable, wrapped in an ACE bandage. I blame the pavement...and my significant other who has convinced me that I should wear heels more often, even though I tower over the general Argentine public.
I am 6´1-ish with said heels on. That is a long way to fall.

I can´t get a flight out of here. I´ve been on standby since last week. I missed the National Championship. I´m burned, starting to peel on my arse, which makes sitting and falling asleep a big PAIN.

I have no cell phone. My attempt to buy a cell phone was met with laughs. Oh well.
The owner of my little boutique hotel has taken a liking to me. Economically, this is good for me. I am paying half of what other patrons are paying, and I get unlimited free water bottles and speedy in-house medical attention. Besides these advantages, there are none. Ugh. Late check out times, the only hair drier in the hotel and free wine here and there are mine for the taking, too. It could be worse...

Anyway,

So I´ve been thinking a lot about nature vs. nurture related to travel. As in, is it more important who you´re with or where you are? There are some quotes about this. Most people like to say ¨it doesn´t matter where you are, it´s who you´re with that really matters¨ etc.
And you, the reader, probably agree. I´ve always been more on the other side. I think where you are is pretty damn important. Like, I had amazing experiences in India and France...and I´m pretty sure those were more a result of me and where I was, as opposed to who I was surrounded by. I´m pretty certain of that.

But then, enter Argentina. The first 16 days were perfect. BEST VACATION EVER. Since then...same place...and misery. Been staying alone, not going out, hibernating 80% of the time. I´m staying in a better hotel than anywhere I stayed in India....and yet, it´s not good enough, I don´t feel enlightened, and I don´t feel like exploring the city, trying new things, learning....nothing! I don´t feel like staying or going.

So, in this case I´ve got to say, it was much more important who I was with. Because without that person, the whole landscape here has changed.

The only thing I can come up with is that it doesn´t matter that much where you are OR who you are with. I think it´s all in the mindset you have coming into the new place. I look at myself in India...on a disgusting, smelly sleeper car at midnight...passing through the countryside. No AC, 100plus temperature, beggars poking me. Yet, it didn´t fluster me. I was there for a reason and I had a bit of a plan. Now, I´m in beautiful Argentina. It´s sunny and the temperature is perfect. Maybe 75 or 80. I´m in a cute, brand new hotel in the hippest part of the city. I´m surrounded by boutiques and bistros, parillas and hip bars. Life is laid back and easy here, and the locals are some of the friendliest people around. Yet, I feel lost and definitely am without my A game. More like C game. Breaking bones, not attempting to speak the language, ordering take-out sushi as if I´m afraid to be seen alone...not the broad abroad I´m SUPPOSED to be. What happened? And if you´re thinking ¨Duh Kali, you forgot your medicine!¨ You would be wrong, because I have not forgotten! I´m actually more consistent than usual!

So, as it turns out, it doesn´t matter where you are or who you´re with, but what is going on upstairs, that really matters when you travel. I think. All this to say, my brain is currently thinking about how I miss my FranFran, how I don´t want to be in cold Alabama...jobless...figuring out ¨what to do with my life¨ for the 2397th time.

(Pictures of injuries coming atcha soon!)

6.1.10

Argentina Updates

Last night marks the second time I have been in a cab where the driver has passed out multiple times. The first time wasn´t as scary because we were in slow stop and go traffic. This time I was sharing a hot, foul-smelling, mosquito-infested car with a nice older couple, and our morbidly obese driver had evidently not slept in a very long time.

We were speeding down the interstate at 1 a.m. in two lanes...
My fellow passenger thought it was funny. ¨He drives like me,¨ he said.
I was about to ask him to pull over and let me drive. It was that bad. Once we were off the interstate, he decided that every red light would be power-nap time. The lights don´t stay red for long in Buenos Aires. There was a lot of nudging and seat kicking...and me wishing that I had a seatbelt. Seatbelt had been broken off...

When we arrived at our hotel, the brand new Be Hollywood in Palermo Hollywood, I said ¨you go back to your casa?¨ and made a sleepy gesture. He nodded. I really hope he made it. I must say that I was impressed with his ability to open his eyes when he heard passing cars.

30.12.09

more fun in Colonia, Uruguay




these are so out of order

black and whites of Estancia Tierra Santa


hanging out in paradise


out to pasture in Carmelo, Uruguay




Fran fell in love with Phoebe the dog at Estancia Tierra Santa. He also fed his first pig, Colette.



1. Recoleta Cemetery, where Eva Peron is buried
2. Enjoying the vineyards of Mendoza
3. The gang post excrutiating bike ride, wishing we had taken the surrey. There is nothing like trying to steer an ill-fitting, top-heavy bike along busy intersections after four wine tastings, all the while feeling a constant breeze as dump trucks almost graze your left shoulder. Funny now...painful and scary then. Really. They don't make anyone wear helmets, sign release forms...and they definitely don't inform riders of just how treacherous the journey through Chacras de Coria is. The tour organizer is Bikes and Wines. Others have had better experiences with them....just be warned these tours are NOT for the faint of heart.

found in San Telmo



We wondered around the San Telmo markets one Sunday and had the pleasure of hearing this man/fellow restaurant patron sing some tunes at the neighborhood's French brasserie, La Pétanque. According to our waiter this guy played with Elton. He looked like a pirate of the Caribbean to me.

29.12.09

Man purses are all the rage in Tigre, Argentina

Sunset in Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay



They are known for their sunsets but the ones we experienced were a bit subpar due to the rain clouds. The Frenchie is fried.

Our mode of transport in Colonia.




Fran was a daredevil and is convinced these can't flip...

27.12.09

Another favorite small town/city

François and I arrived two days ago in Colonia, Uruguay via Buquebus (this is the ferry that crosses the Rio de la Plata and who happened to lose our luggage) from Buenos Aires. After over a week of traveling, this is my first post...that's what I get for traveling light and leaving my computer at home. I've just downloaded the first batch of pictures and don't even know how to retrieve them on Fran's computer :(

In brief, I arrived in Buenos Aires on December 17, left for Mendoza the 20th, was back in BA on Christmas Eve afternoon and celebrated ensemble with the Alabamians (Sarah Kate, Alice and Jay) and the Parisians (Fran and Rudy). Christmas day was spent mostly barefoot on the patio-drinking rosé, sunbathing and enjoying the occassional whiff of animal dung from our 13th floor apartment that overlooks the Buenos Aires zoo and botanical gardens (the apt. was lent to the Parisian boys by their Parisian friends who went back to Paris for the holidays...it's perfectly located with great wrap-around decks, fun decor- the gal who lives their deals street art- and a great ambiance.)

That about catches us up to today. We were in Colonia del Sacramento the past two days. Rough cobblestone streets, blooming vines, baby pink and blue sunsets and a day long go-cart/scooter excursion around the outskirts and beaches of town (Fran is a better driver than me despite the fact that I used to school peeps at The Track, Gulf Shores).

Tonight we are staying at the glorious Estancia Tierra Santa in Carmelo, Uruguay. We arrived this morning bright and early and Karen Vandergrift, proprietor of the estancia, picked us up and escorted us to this amazing piece of paradise. Horses, cows, sheep, creeks, pigs, dogs, exotic birds and plants and lush greenery...and she REALLY used her background in design and textiles to make this the most comfortable, classy, down-to-earth and romantic place I've ever experienced. We have just returned from a fabulous horse ride and are genuinely enjoying Karen's company. She spends half her time with her husband in San Francisco (she's American) and half her time at this fabulous ranch she founded in 2002. Mom- you would LOVE her style.

Colonia totally captivated me and I can't wait to go back. From what I've seen of South America, I think my family would enjoy it above everwhere else I've lived/traveled.

I still don't feel like I know Buenos Aires well enough to write about it except in the bits and pieces of experiences I've had. Mendoza (wine country) was wonderful-more to come on that. I'm sad to leave Uruguay- Colonia joins my exclusive little list of favorite small towns/cities:

Beaufort, South Carolina
Bruges, Belgium
Chantilly, France
Colonia, Uruguay (topping the list in my mind right now)

Fran is BEGGING for his computer...must go...à bientôt!

12.12.09

New Birmingham Blog of Note

I met a fellow New Collegian last night who has recently moved to Birmingham from Charleston, SC.

Her blog shows the Magic City from the perspective of a total newcomer- with a new family and on the job hunt- and is full of quaint neighborhood discoveries and great photos. I look forward to following her journey and think you should check it out, too. Sometimes all you need is a fresh set of eyes...

19.11.09

Indian Ambassador visits Alabama with stops in Huntsville, Birmingham and Montgomery



Yours truly with Indian Ambassador to the United States, Meera Shankar. Tuesday at Innovation Depot.
Her visit was sponsored by the Alabama India Business Partnership and Computer Technology Solutions. She spoke to the AIBP and guests at the Space and Rocket Center Monday night and paid a visit to Governor Riley Tuesday morning before a dessert reception at Innovation Depot and lunch at the Museum of Art.

Shankar is the first career diplomat serving as Ambassador in over 20 years. She is committed to promoting economic ties between our state and India. Neat lady. Cool opportunity for me!

La Capitale du Cheval: Chantilly

Birmingham fashionista Meg Larussa gives a shout out to Chantilly and the Birmingham International Center. Tonight we'll be drinking some newly-arrived Beaujolais Nouveau and hear from Steve Sirls of the American Friends of Chantilly ( a non-profit based in Nashville.)

Check out her blog here

14.11.09

Mardi Gras

Today I received in the mail...

1. My Brazilian visa

2. The new Economist magazine whose cover proclaims "Brazil takes off"

Is this coincidence?!

I just happened to track my passport that I sent off November 4th, and it happened to say "available for pick up."
So I rushed out to the mailbox, still in my bathrobe at 4 p.m. (hallelujah) and THERE IT WAS.

My lovely express-mailed package bearing my passport and new visa.
Followed by what is usually one of my favorite moments in the week- the arrival of The Economist.
This is meant to be!


I can't wait to see if Carnival in Rio tops Mardi Gras in NOLA. I have my doubts, that's for sure.
In the case that Rio wins, check ya later, because I'm never coming home.

13.11.09

Vino Veritas

Malbec from Mendoza is amazing.
I'll be there from Dec. 17- Jan. 14 (unless I don't come back.)

Who has Argentina stories, travel advice, contacts down there, etc. to share?